CAWS Cat Resouces

Ladder Scratching Post

2010-04-29T21:53:00.001-06:00

This home-made scratching 'post' is made from a four foot step ladder. It is wrapped in about 600 feet of ¼ inch un-oiled manila rope. Un-oiled sisal rope can be used as well. If you're up for the challenge of making one yourself, be sure to get rope that is un-oiled; oiled rope is toxic to cats. Several one-foot square Berber carpet tiles are used on the top and bottom plywood rounds, as well as on the top step of the ladder, covering the metal parts. A staple gun, a few carriage bolts, a drill, and several evenings is what you'll need to build one yourself. And typically, your cats will use it!
Please note: It has come to our attention that wood ladders of any height are becoming difficult to find at local home-improvement stores.
This page and picture was inspired by the 'original cat ladder' at Anne Kolaczyk's Cat Ladder page. Many thanks to Anne for the idea!

Saving The "Misfits" The Reward of Adopting the UnderCat

2009-12-22T12:53:00.002-07:00

Shy, old and temperamental? Not necessarily. The art of looking beyond what you see in that cage, and discovering the true personalities of unique and delightful pets.

One way of measuring CAWS' record as a rescue group is to simply total the number of successful adoptions the organization does in a year. Totals are certainly not the whole picture, but they sure are a good place to start. Most of our adoptions happen at our weekly scheduled events at PETsMART and Furburbia, and those adoptions depend very much on an instant bond of affection between animal and adopter. The animals are basically on audition, though they don't know it. CAWS' success, as well as the animals future, depends on these auditions - and these animals are usually already someone's cast-off. Talk about starting out with a handicap.

Cats, in particular, find themselves thrust into an uncomfortable and alien environment, when they are caged and surrounded by dozens of other, often frightened, cats and dogs, with strange people constantly poking their fingers through the cages expecting unconditional love at first sight. It's no wonder then that some of our cats find this scenario just too much to deal with and either hide at the back of their cages or lash out at the nearest intruder until mercifully the foster parents take them home at the end of the day. In their foster homes they can be themselves and come out of their shells.

To judge a cat by its behaviour in a cage at PETsMART is to do it a major disservice. One could just as easily put forth the point of view that only a cat which exhibited its displeasure at being forced against its will into such a situation is one worth considering as a pet, but most people, when confronted by an animal which does not respond to their cooing, or hisses at them, move on to the next cage in search of a so-called better bet. This is understandable, but not necessarily the best decision.

It has been our experience that some of the cats with the most wonderful personalities come from the very cages which contain these apparent feline misfits. When given a stable home, the same savviness which tells them that something is very much amiss when caged all day, is what makes them such pleasurable companions when given a place to call their own.

During a trip to PETsMART to buy supplies for the family's kitten and pair of basset hounds, Chris stopped by the Luv-a-Pet center, just for a look. Curled in the back of one of the cages was Sidney, who reminded Chris of a previous cat he had owned. Sidney was one of CAWS' shyest and most nervous PETsMART cats. Originally coaxed from a feral colony, he had proven so shy and unaccustomed to any form of captivity that he was being considered for a return to the feral colony for his own good. Told of this history, Chris wanted to take a closer look anyway.

When Chris held Sidney for the first time, Sidney's fear was palpable. Nevertheless, after a few moments Chris detected a certain relaxing of the cat in his arms. That almost imperceptible feeling, one which you would perhaps rationalize as imaginary if you thought about it too long, was the seed of a bond being sewn. Sidney had a new home.

At first Sidney was nervous, hard to approach, and easily startled. This wasn't really much of a surprise. However, he and Chris' kitten were instantly best friends and became inseparable, and interestingly enough he was not frightened of the basset hounds either. Sidney's relationship with the playful kitten, and the family's patience in allowing Sidney to set the pace paid off. From inauspicious beginnings he has become a delight of a cat: confident, curious of visitors, always game for a cuddle, and ready to show his younger feline friend who can play the hardest when dad brings out the thing on a string.

It is typical that shyness is not a permanent trait just because it is exhibited in a cage. Animals can and will adapt and bloom in a loving environment, and if one goes through life seeing only what's on the surface, one misses those rare experiences, like the one of Chris and Sidney when they decided to get just a little bit closer.

Toby and Missy's lives were turned on their heads a couple of years ago when the elderly woman who cared for them passed away. Her son decided that his mother's cats would do just fine out on the streets, so Toby and Missy were cast out to fend for themselves. Six months later, in the middle of winter, Toby was trapped and became one of CAWS' rescue animals. Ten years old, with only a single tooth and a lack of trust engendered by the rough street life, Toby's prospects for a loving new home were not good. He would hide in his cage during adoption days at PETsMART, regarding his potential companions with suspicious eyes. Eventually his story touched the heart of a family willing to look past the surface and give the old guy back the life he'd once had and was so cruelly snatched away from.

Missy's fate is still unknown.

It would be nice to say that once in Toby's new home everyone lived happily ever after, but it certainly wasn't the case at first. Toby's initial reaction was to scratch his new parents, fight with the other cat, and hide in remote places. However, after a couple of months of being allowed his own time to adjust and to realize that his days of being in constant peril were over, Toby has become a loving, trusting friend to all who live with him and visit him, and he gives back in kind and more. His age and experience have given him a certain nobility and he is adored as much as any pet can be, because he's a champion amongst cats. He was given a chance and a loving home, and now the family is inseparable.

Adopting older cats is rewarding in several ways. They are usually calmer and full of affection. Having had many learning experiences, they are more prone to knowing how to behave in a house shared by humans and perhaps other animals. A ten year old cat is not necessarily on death's door either - it is common for a healthy indoor cat to live to be 20 or older. And there is always the knowledge that you are giving an animal a really priceless gift, simply by adopting one whose age will prevent many people from seeing the beauty.

The young family dropped Patches off at a pet boarding business one morning - and never came back. The staff kept her there, trying to find her a home but to no avail. For five months she lived there in a cage. Unfortunately Patches was so enraged to be spending her life in a cage that she would hiss and growl at people who came to look at her, condemning herself to the life she so hated. CAWS became aware of her and a foster volunteer agreed to take Patches home for an attempt at rehabilitation.

Once free of her confinement she was immediately much happier. She had an unusual confidence for a cat cooped up for so long, and wasn't at all bothered by the steady rotation of foster animals who cohabited with her. It seemed like she held no grudges, and accepted that those around her were not responsible for her previous suffering. She was extremely inquisitive and playful and after a couple of months it seemed like any vestiges of her previous disgruntlement had completely disappeared.

Her improvement tempted CAWS to take her to PETsMART for the bi-monthly adoption days. Big mistake. The cage was indelibly etched in Patches memory and she stalked about daring visitors to come near her at their peril. Meanwhile at home - the environment where she would be a companion animal - she is wonderful. This Jekyll and Hyde behaviour is inconceivable unless you witness it.

Fortunately CAWS has a web site on which Patches' picture and biography could be exhibited, since Patches in the flesh at adoption days was hardly a sight to behold. Even more fortunately a kind hearted soul was willing to give Patches a home visit to see her on her own terms. Patches has now been in her adoptive home for two years and both human and feline are loving their companionship. Free from the spectre of "the cage" Patches is blossoming. The new owner loves his two cats equally, but for many of his friends Patches is their favorite because of her mischievous playfulness, her artistic balancing of reticence and flamboyance, and her somehow unique way of carrying herself through life.

One of the great benefits of being a rescue organization which uses foster homes to shelter the animals is that their true personalities can be determined and they can be effectively matched with potential adopters. Patches' story shows that you can't always trust what you see behind the bars of a cage, and some of the most rewarding partnerships are made from two creatures both willing to give the other one a chance.

Adopting Kittens in Pairs

2009-12-22T12:02:00.006-07:00

Kittens are curious and crave constant stimulation. A single, bored kitten will often entertain itself by chewing on plants, climbing drapes, climbing furniture, unrolling toilet paper, exploring electrical cords and sockets, etc. This is not to say that kittens who live with other kittens won't also sometimes do these things, but if they have another kitten to tumble around and play with, it is less likely that they will need to entertain themselves with behaviors like these, which at the least are destructive and at the worst can be very dangerous.

Kittens tend to be very active at night. A single kitten is likely to keep the owner awake with constant jumping, pouncing and other hunting behavior directed at any portion of the owner's body which moves under the bed linens. With a companion to play with after the owner has gone to bed, this behavior is minimized as the two will occupy each other by finding interesting shadows to chase and games to play until they finally tire and fall asleep too.Kittens want and need interaction with others of their own kind for healthy social development.

A kittens learns a lot in the first several months of life from its mother and littermates. Separating a kitten from its mother is often a necessity in order for it to be adopted, but taking it away from its littermates and isolating it can delay the kitten's development emotionally, socially and sometimes physically. Kittens who are able to remain with one of their littermates or a similarly-aged companion, tend to be healthier and happier, and in the long run, better socialized pets than those who are isolated from others of their kind at an early age.

Anyone who has observed kittens know they want to bite and wrestle with one another--this behavior is normal. You cannot prevent a kitten from doing what comes naturally anymore than you can force a two year old toddler to sit still. Though it is not acceptable for a kitten to bite and wrestle with its human companions, in the absence of having a littermate or companion its own age to play with, this is precisely what a single kitten will want to do. Even if you are willing to allow (and can tolerate) this behavior from your kitten when it is small, by the time the animal matures, you will end up with an adult cat who has developed very bad habits (for example, biting and scratching as "play").

Humans, even loving, caring humans, are not an adequate substitute for a cat in lieu of one of its own kind. Even if the owner is fortunate enough to be home quite a bit, the amount of attention a lone kitten will demand is likely to occupy all of the owner's waking hours at home. A pair of kittens will definitely still want to interact with the owner, but can keep each other occupied while the owner is doing such necessary tasks as working, paying bills, having telephone conversations, gardening, laundry, etc. Most cats, regardless of their age, are highly sociable and are truly happier living with other cat companions. This in turn makes them better pets, which results in happier owners.

Particularly if there is already an older cat in the household, a kitten should not be brought in as a lone companion. As mentioned above, a youngster has boundless energy, wants to play and run constantly, and requires very high amounts of interaction, all of which are likely to overwhelm and irritate an older cat in short order. Likewise, a kitten is apt to be frustrated that its companion does not have the same energy level as itself. At the very least, this can lead to two very unhappy cats. Worse-case scenario, behavior problems such as litter box avoidance or destructive scratching can occur if one or both cats act out their frustrations on their surroundings. Longer-term, it is almost certain that the two will never have a close, bonded relationship, even after the kitten matures, since their experiences with one another from the beginning of the relationship are likely to be negative. An older cat is better matched with someone of his or her own age, who has a similar temperament.Adopting a single kitten or young cat is simply not a good idea. Trying to keep a single kitten occupied, stimulated, safe and happy while also going about the business of everyday life is much more of a challenge than it may seem upon first consideration.

At CAWS, our goal is not simply to do large numbers of adoptions, but rather to ensure that the animals adopted from our program are getting a home for life. Recognizing that even when a potential adopter has carefully thought through the decision to make the lifetime commitment of adopting an animal, bringing a new pet home inevitably creates big changes. Minimizing the factors which are likely to cause stress to an owner, both in the beginning and on an ongoing basis (like being repeatedly pounced on in the middle of the night, or having the brand-new draperies shredded) is therefore the best thing we as volunteers can do to achieve that goal.We understand and accept that someone out there will probably adopt or sell you a single kitten.

With that in mind, please think long and hard about forcing a kitten to become an only child. Mother Nature knew what she was doing when she created kittens in litters!

Taming Feral Kittens

2009-12-22T11:56:00.011-07:00

One of the services CAWS offers the public is assistance with responsible care of feral cats who are not tame and usually cannot be touched. CAWS offers large, high quality, humane traps and assistance with spay/neuter and other veterinary care for these cats. At times, someone finds a litter of kittens born to a feral momma cat. Although it can be hard to take the kittens from their mom, in the long run it is more compassionate to give them the chance for homes as housecats.

A CAWS volunteer shares her advice and experiences about taming feral kittens: Taming feral kittens is a challenging and sometimes frustrating task, but as my once-feral, now love-bug Indy reminds me every day, the rewards are purrfectly enormous!To start, if the momma cat is still caring for the kittens when you find them, it is best to bring the kittens in at six to eight weeks, so they are likely already weaned. Try to not disturb the mother cat; if she feels concerned, she may move and hide the kittens.

If after checking around it appears the kittens are abandoned, bring them in right away. If they are younger than 5-6 weeks, please contact your veterinarian or a rescue group for information about caring for these fragile little ones. (A word of caution do not give them cow's milk they need kitten formula to survive).

We have successfully tamed kittens that are older than 8 weeks. My Indy was 16 weeks old when I brought her in, and she is the oldest kitten I have tamed. But some folks have been able to tame cats brought in near 6 months old. The oft-quoted rule that 8 weeks is the limit simply does not hold true in the real world.To capture the kittens, if they are old enough to scamper, it is preferable to use a humane trap. Do not try to corner and grab them with your bare hands; you may be bitten, the kitten may be injured in the struggle to get away, and its fear of humans can be increased. Traps are available for loan at many local animal shelters; CAWS also has humane traps for loan.Plan ahead for a place in your house where the kittens can be kept isolated from other animals. In this room, place a cage or carrier large enough for:a shallow litter box with nonclumping litter;a box with a towel, or a small kitty condo, where they can hide until they feel safe, andfood and water dishes that do not tip over easily (kittens can be rowdy). This container should, however, be of a size so that you can reach into the cage and handle the kittens.

The room you keep the kittens in should be small and a "safe room" for the kittens to eventually explore without harm or being able to escape. About escaping we're not just talking about unsecured windows. Kittens are curious and flexible, and can squiggle into little openings you may have never noticed (the gap between the floor and kitchen cabinets often goes unnoticed by us, but is a favorite for kittens). Be sure to examine the room and block these tempting routes before you're ready to let the kittens roam.

When you capture the kittens, place them directly into this container. Make water and dry kitten food (preferably high quality) always available. Again, do not give them milk. If they are not yet weaned onto dry cat food, you can moisten dry food with water or kitten formula and discarding the dampened food if it becomes stale. Give them a dollop of canned cat food, also. I believe wet food is the golden key to taming wild ones!

Start to handle them by reaching into the cage and slowly petting them, where ever they are. Please wear gloves these little guys are scared, and know how to use their teeth and claws. Once the kittens are comfortable enough to not attempt to bite or scratch (they may continue to hiss for a while), bring each one out and place it on a towel, in your lap. Again, gently stroke the kitten, and offer treats of wet food (yes, do use bribes). At this stage the kitten may try to creep away; gently bring it back to the center of your lap, offer the treats, and talk soothingly to the kitten. Always use caution and never put a kitten near your face.

Lest this sound too scary, not all kittens are so feisty - they each have individual personalities. And some tame up surprisingly quickly, including some of the spit-fires!

During this process, try to spend an hour, or preferably, two hours, daily interacting with the kittens. Two or three petting and handling sessions during the day help to speed the process.

This project does take time, but a few minutes while you drink your morning juice, or while you look at the mail after work, can fit in fairly easily. If there are young people in the home who can help you, holding kittens can be a time to sit and chat a bit. But the kittens can also be a great excuse to read a book (to the kitten, if you feel like it), or return a phone call, or just give yourself some quiet time, "I can't do (you name it!) until next month these kittens need to be tamed before they get older!"

When you can reach for the kittens and they are unafraid, they can begin to explore on their own in the "safe room" described earlier, and play with cat toys. if they do happen to run under something and you can't get to them, coax them out with that handy wet cat food, or a cat toy.

Once the kittens are out-and-about in their room, it is important to start introducing them to other people. This step is critical in helping them become adoptable and able to adjust to new homes.

Some additional hints:

If one or more of the kittens are not responding as quickly as the others, sometimes separating them will help them bond with humans, rather than relying on their siblings.You may have times when you think "This little beastie will never learn to trust me!" But persevere if you put in the time, the breakthroughs will almost always happen. They can be sudden, and especially heartening.
These kittens will need the standard veterinary care, including vaccines and deworming. Please check with your veterinarian for the appropriate vaccine schedule and deworming medication.For more information regarding caring for feral kittens, please contact CAWS and also check Alley Cat Allies' website.
Consider working through a rescue organization to place the kittens. These groups can help you ensure the kittens will be adopted to responsible homes.
If the kittens have not yet been placed and they are 3-4 months old, we recommend that you spay/neuter them before they are placed.
And last but not least, please don't forget the mother cat. She needs to be trapped, spayed, vaccinated, returned to her home area, and provided regular food and water. Not only does she deserve this care, but if she is neglected, the entire cycle will start all over again. I've seen feral cats have up to three litters in one summer. If the kittens are indeed too old to be tamed, they should be trapped, spayed/neutered, vaccinated, and returned to their mother. If you can, wait until they are 3-4 months of age, so they can be vaccinated for rabies at the same time they are spayed.

Feral Cats - Act Locally

2009-12-22T11:45:00.009-07:00

Acting LocallyFeral cats are generally considered to be those cats that are not tame, orsocialized. They may have been abandoned, or born to abandoned cats. They usually live short, miserable lives. These cats, in their struggle to survive, are often seen as "problem" animals, to be "gotten rid of". As a result, they rarely have the recognition and protection in a community that pets have.
Many people feed these cats. But feeding ferals as an act of kindness is not enough it can ultimately result in more unwanted kittens and more suffering. Instead, caretakers are encouraged to use a "fix and release" approach, often referred to as TNR:

Trap (Humanely)
Neuter (Spay/Neuter)
Return

This program can encourage community tolerance of feral TNR cats, and recognition of responsible TNR programs. Although not perfect, the number of ferals are reduced, and TNR ferals have a kinder, healthier life.

The above trap is a Tomahawk #608 with a sliding back door. CAWS uses this style of trap because the larger size gives the cat some room if we need to hold one over night. The sliding back door makes putting bait in much easier, and allows use of attaching Tomahawk squeeze cages by our veterinarians. We have found the traps to be sturdy and reliable. If you'd like further information on Tomahawk traps, please visit their web site!

Nationally, organizations involved in feral cat care report that feral cat colonies maintained under a TNR program:

stabilize in numbers
protect their territories, and
don't attract additional animals

These groups of cats also have significantly fewer or no problems with fighting, spraying, and other unwelcome behaviors often associated with "strays". This has been CAWS' experience with local feral colonies, also.
What about simply "removing" the cats? Feral cats tend to find areas where food is available such as around dumpsters. So other cats, unaltered, will likely move in and reproduce, starting the cycle again.
CAWS recognizes that TNR is not an appropriate approach in all situations. The cats' area

must be safe for the animals (and the volunteer), and consent of the property owner is necessary.

The above feeding station protects the food and water, and protects the site from unwelcome bugs and other intruders. This is just one example. Experience suggests the opening for the cats should be larger. The lid is hinged and raises, and the top portion and the pedestal are two separate pies, for ease of transporting and cleaning. It is treated with a water repellent stain.

In areas where the program has been successful, property owners and neighbors are much more supportive when aware that the animals are "fixed", and cared for responsively, not creating a feeder-breedersituation.
CAWS greatly appreciates the support of businesses in Salt Lake City who have graciously agreed to allow CAWS volunteers to maintain TNR feral colonies on their properties.
Long-Term Goals
If you do feed feral cats, or know someone who feeds ferals, please make sure the care reduces the feral cat problem. Make sure there's extra effort expended up front to create a TNR program for the long-term well-being of the cats.
For further information regarding TNR, visit the Feral Cat Coalition or Alley Cat Allies. For local information, including humane traps for loan, participating veterinarians, feeding stations, winter shelters, and helpful hints on how to get it done, contact CAWS at (801) 328-4731, or send email to cawsdotorg@aol.com.

Sampson (pictured above) is a feral cat in our TNR program. He is living out his days with his friend Blackie in Salt Lake City, Utah, behind an office building. If not for the permission of the building owner, and the TNR program, Sampson and Blackie would produce more kittens than there are homes, and would roam the streets.

Scratching Posts & Toys - For Your Cat's Workout

2009-12-22T11:29:00.005-07:00

Scratching PostsA scratching post is a good investment even with clipped claws, a cat needs his own place to scratch.
When cats scratch, they are getting necessary exercise for their upper body, including paws and legs, and helping to shed the outer claw.
Claws actually grow in with points. When the point is clipped, a new claw point begins to grow. If the claws are clipped regularly, the point has no chance to grow out.
What Kind?There are many types of scratching posts or toys. Some are covered with carpet, some with rope. Some are just wood. Some are tall posts, some are cones, some lie flat on the ground, some can be attached to a doorknob.
It is well worth trying another type if your cat is not interested in the post you have.
Consumer Cat Note:
Some of our cats would like to see scratching posts made with a larger base so they can really get a heartfelt workout without the post tipping over. A sturdy post competes better with a couch, whichis sturdy. You may want to attach the post to a larger base, or wedge its edge under furniture to make it more stable.
Using It From Scratch
All well and good, but how do you get your cat to use the darn thing?
Cats have the same dislike we do of beingtold what to do. So taking your cat's paws and putting them on the post is likely to simply make the scratching post unpopular.
Some Things To Try

Rub catnip on the scratching post
Tie a favorite toy to a piece of sturdy sewing elastic and tie the other end of the elastic around the top of the scratching post
Play "string" with a shoelace, fat yarn, or other cord your cat can get his paws into, by dragging the string on the scratching post so he or she can get their claws into the post.

Furniture Protection

Tape a piece of square plastic on the target area, and spray it regularly for awhile with a "cat away" product
Purchase clear plastic "corners" that are held on with upholstery pins. These may be available from your local upholsterer, or they may be able to make them for you. They are not noticeable, and they really help!
Double-sided sticky tape, applied to the areas your cat likes to scratch, is also a tactful deterrent.

Praise your cat every time it plays with or uses its scratching toy.

Cats Love Praise, Too!

Get Your Paws Outta There!
While you are luring your cat to use it's scratching post, it is a good idea to make any other scratching targets less attractive.

Put some inexpensive "silk" greenery in the pot, around the plant, and spray it with a "Cat Away" repellent spray regularly for a few days
Posting some inexpensive bamboo chopsticks firmly in the soil (with or without the above greenery) can keep kitty from getting a good footing
Cover the soil with the larger decorative pine cones
Cover the soil with aluminum foil; while this is not as aesthetic, it does discourage some cats.

Please Don't Chew The Daisies:
The best trick is usually a spray called "Bitter Apple". It does not hurt plant leaves, does not harm kitty, and from all appearances, is horrible to feline taste buds. "Bitter Apple" is available at pet stores, and one spraying lasts quite a while.
You may also want to try spraying vinegar (it is cheap) on the leaves some cats have exotic tastes and don't mind vinegar, but most cats don't find it to their liking.

A New Cat

2009-12-21T22:44:00.009-07:00

Help Your New Pet Adjust
Keep your new kitty in a small, secure room at first. Use just one room at first, and keep the food and litter there. Let your new cat get to know and trust household members, before it must adjust to the entire home one thing at a time. Sometimes even the most friendly cat needs a few days to feel safe in a new environment.

If you are adopting an adult cat, be sure that this "starter room" has very secure screens, and keep the windows securely closed. More than once a new kitty, who is actually quite happy in his new home, has decided to check the out-of-doors, pulls off a screen (how, we don't know, but it's true) and takes off. Cats are ingenious, and can be true Houdini's. The escapee is then disoriented, and can very likely become lost and injured. Truly, an ounce of prevention...

Don't let your new kitty go outside, whatever you do! Even if your new kitty cries at the door or window, and does not eat or go to the bathroom at first, keep it inside. Despite stories about cats finding their way home, in reality your new cat is very likely to become lost and suffer. Adoptive families have learned this the hard way.

If you have other pets, don't introduce the new pet immediately
Keep your new pet totally separate at first, in its own room. Before making any pet introductions, let the new pet get to know and trust you, and let your other pets discover they are still loved although they smell a new furry one in the house, they are not going to lose their home and family.

Easy does it take time and let everyone adjust
Allow your pets lots of time for sniffing under the door to the new pet's room. Try switching rooms for awhile, and let the new cat explore the house, and let your current cat spend time in the room, sniffing around. As they progress, try allowing them to check out each other through a screen door or sliding glass door, or other safe ways of exploring these "strangers". This effort can prevent an unpleasant introduction that is hard to recover from.
This approach is well worth the extra time. You will ensure your pets are all happy and comfortable in your home. Tempting though it may be, it can be a big mistake to rush this process.

About a Cat's Claws

2009-12-21T22:33:00.008-07:00

CAWS recommends that cats be indoor pets, and also that they not be declawed. But CAWS also recommends clipping cats' claws. Clipping the front claws really makes a difference - for you and your home. When your cat is playful (making "happy paws") on your lap, clipped claws make a difference. And of course, removing that sharp point benefits your furniture.

How To: Use a pair of cat nail clippers (see photo). They make the job easier, and cost $5 or $6 at a pet store. If you adopt a young cat, do start clipping its claws right away, so your cat becomes used to it. If your cat is not in favor of claw clipping, start slowly. As you can, hold the front paw between your thumb and index finger, and gently press, so the claws are pushed out and are easy to see. Practice this with your cat, so he or she becomes more comfortable having his paws and nails touched (see photo). Pick a quiet time, when your cat is relaxed, to begin the claw trimming. A great time is right after a catnap. It is important not to cut the quick or nerves of the nail (see photo); this hurts, and certainly dampens your cat's urge to cooperate.

Until you, and your cat, are comfortable with clipping, just take off the tiniest tip, ensuring you don't get the quick.

Don't expect to clip all ten front nails at once, if your cat is skittish. Clip as many as you can, then praise your cat and give it a treat. Turning the event into a struggle will only make future sessions more difficult. Over time, the quick of the nail recedes if the nails are clipped regularly, allowing the nail to be clipped shorter, to a more blunt tip. Depending on the cat, claws need to be clipped every two to six weeks.

What about Nail Caps? These rounded plastic caps fit over each claw, and must be replaced every so often, as the claws grow out. Sort of like fake fingernails. They even come in different colors. You can apply them yourself, or if your cat is not in favor of a manicure, a vet visit may be your best bet.

The Feline Heart and Nutrition

2009-12-21T22:30:00.005-07:00

Chanel came to me straight from the alley where she had apparently been living for years when a CAWS volunteer found her. She seemed about six years old, and from kittenhood, probably had not eaten very well. And as we learned, these nutritional deficiencies can have serious consequences.

One nutrient she likely did not receive was taurine - an essential amino acid found in meat, but not in vegetables. Veterinary science has discovered that a lack of taurine can result in the heart disease cardiomyopathy. As a result, taurine is now added as a supplement in cat food, and is listed in the nutritional labels, where you can check for this important ingredient.
What is cardiomyopathy? Affected cats may have:

difficulty breathing
rapid respiratory rate
weight loss or poor condition
tire easily with exercise, or
signs of weakness or paralysis of the rear legs

Despite the chronic nature of the disease itself, cats often appear to develop symptoms quite suddenly, especially difficulty in breathing and rear leg weakness.

Why can the symptoms occur so suddenly? In part, it's based on the concept of survival of the fittest. Although much domestication has occurred in our feline friends, ancient instincts are still part of their functions. So to ensure potential predators may not determine they are ill, they try their best not to show their vulnerability. And in many cases of heart disease, when the symptoms do show up, it's generally too late.

Such was the case with Chanel. From the time I first noted her labored breathing to the day when she left for the heavenly catnip gardens, was a scant eight weeks. At first, all the typical tests were run to determine the cause of her problem. But an x-ray showed Chanel was in trouble; Chanel's veterinarian removed 150cc's of fluid from her lungs at that time. And after an EKG and ultrasound, she was diagnosed with dilated cardiomypoathy.

She did well in the ensuing days; she took heart medication, megadoses of taurine, and a diuretic to further help reduce the fluid in her lungs. This regimen of care increased her comfort, but the damage to her poor heart had been done, years before. She passed on having spent time as a wonderful member of my household, and after having received all that veterinary medicine could do for a dear cat who had not had a very good life in the beginning.

Dental care it's not just for people

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Over time, a cat's teeth accumulate tartar, just like our teeth do if not cleaned regularly. This can cause tooth deterioration, and infection, gum disease, and tooth loss. In turn this causes pain and difficulty in eating and grooming. It is important to know dental disease can spread to other organs of the body, causing serious and dangerous illness to your pet.

Regular preventive dental care will keep your pet's teeth and gums healthy, and protect your pet's long term health. The "Dental"When your vet examines and cleans your pet's teeth, he will anesthetize him, as dogs and cats are no fonder of a visit to the dentist than are their owners. You may want to schedule other care that may require anesthesia at the same time. How often should your pet have a dental? Each animal is different. Even dogs or cats from the same litter, who eat the same food, may have very different dental needs. Your veterinarian can advise you about an appropriate schedule for your pets.

The Other Question How Much Does It Cost? Dental Care usually costs from $50 to $80 or $90. Your veterinarian is a trained pet dentist, using the same tools your dentist does to clean your teeth. In addition to the time and skill involved, there is the cost of anesthesia, which is based on weight.If your pet's teeth have not received regular care, and need extra treatment, including removal, the cost may be more.

Can I brush my pet's teeth? You sure can. Special brushes that fit over the index finger, and pet dental paste are available for cats and dogs, and are available from your veterinarian or local pet store. However, it will take time and patience for your pet to become comfortable with this procedure: 1.Start with gently teaching your pet to be accustomed to your placing your finger in his mouth, on his / her teeth. 2. Then accustom your pet to the toothbrush — for cats, try using water-pack tuna juice on the brush. 3.Then begin to use pet dental paste.

Be sure to only use pet dental paste, NOT human toothpaste! If your pet does not take to tooth brushing, or you just don't have the time or patience plan on taking your pet in for regular dental care!

Indoor Cats Live Longer, Live Better

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Your cat may tell you the great outdoors is lots of fun - grass to roll in, trees to climb. However, cats, like children, depend on us to recognize danger and protect them from harm. In addition to grass and fresh air, the outdoors poses many risks to your pets. Lethal risks that can be completely avoided:

TRAFFIC To listen to some people, a pet's "getting hit by a car" is just part of pet ownership. Your pet is not likely to agree.
POISON Cat's don't usually resist the temptation of checking out neighbors' yards, the hoods of their cars, and their flower beds. Although it is illegal and inhumane, some people put out a poisonous substance to get rid of those pawprints on a car. Poison also may be put out for other animals, and pets are accidentally poisoned, such as by eating poisoned mice. A number of yard care products can also be poisonous, such as snail bait and some lawn sprays.
CRUELTY Unfortunate, but true, there are more than enough people in this world who are intentionally cruel to animals.
INJURIES If your pet goes outside, it risks injurious or deadly fights with other animals, and also exposure to those animals' diseases.
Bite wounds often abscess, resulting in a serious injury for your pet, and a veterinary bill for you.
DISEASE Even if your pet is vaccinated, it runs the risk of serious diseases:
Leukemia The vaccine for feline leukemia, although valuable, provides about 80% - 85% protection, leaving your pet still at some risk of contracting leukemia, a deadly disease transmitted basically by saliva, from another cat. FIV Feline Immunodeficiency Virus FIV is a disease that compromises the immune system of the cat. There is no vaccine for FIV, and there is no cure. FIV is generally transmitted between cats by biting. A blood test determines if the cat is FIV positive. Scientific evidence indicates FIV is not communicable to humans. A number of stray cats are FIV positive, and your cat runs a significant risk of FIV contact with these outdoor cats. For more information regarding FIV, contact your veterinarian.

No cat, no neighborhood, is immune from these dangers. Give your cat a long, safe, healthy life indoors!

Once in a while Letting your cat go outside once in a while can just reinforce your cat's interest in the outdoors. For many cats, the great outdoors is a bit like ice cream or any other treat. If you never have it, you won't miss it. It may not be a good idea to remind your cat of the outside and stir up the wish to go out.

Your outdoor cats can be persuaded to become indoor cats. If your cat is a door darter, try keeping a spray bottle by the door to discourage these dashes to the outside. Your cat likes water? Instead of a spray bottle, try shaking a tin can with a few rocks in it. Makes a stop-in-your-tracks ruckus. Although at first your cat may be very distressed about his loss of freedom, give it time your cat will adjust, to their benefit.

Make Life Inside FunToys, play time with you, a window to look out of (with secure screens!), scratching posts, and a few twigs of catnip from time to time more than compensate for the risks your cat faces outdoors.